No, you da ho. (updated! and Walla Walla!)

17 July 2006
Oregon, Washington and Idaho

We woke up in Wyeth, OR at the lovely state park, rolled up Sir Guano and hopped back in the Snaab. We had planned the return journey to be more focused - less wandering, more highways. Lots more driving... so off we went!

The highway driving was still stunning - huge mountains, green green trees and a wide river. We planned on lunching in Walla Walla, WA, where Kelly wanted to check out Whitman College. Turns out there's a lot of Whitman attraction around here, including my own National Park! Seems Narcissa and Marcus Whitman were missionaries from Boston in the early 1800's. Narcissa was the first white woman to travel this far west and Marcus's return trip included one of the first wagon trains to cover what would become the Oregon Trail. Due to some poorly explained "misunderstandings" including a measles outbreak that killed off half of the local Cayusa tribe of Native Americans, Marcus and Narcissa and their children were killed in the "Whitman Massacre". Oh, dear. I did not know such an event existed.


Anyway, there is also a fine liberal arts college nearby where Kelly wanted to stop for a merchandising marathon. While the bookstore was closed due to recent flooding, the kind woman who worked there let me in the back storeroom to stock up on tshirts and stuff (Mom and Dad, guess what you're gifts are?). We had already camped out in the comfy leather sofas upstairs to post our last series of updates via the free wi-fi network. Late in the afternoon, we became a bit peckish and noticed young peoples filing into the dining hall area. Donning by baseball cap and Beth's iPod, we easily passed for young college kids and enjoyed a free burger meal. Yay! We love Whitman!

Just add an iPod and a baseball cap, and there's no telling this 30 year old
woman from a young co-ed...

We left Walla Walla and made for Idaho, where we soon set up our best campsite to date: under a gazillion and two stars and next to the Snake River quite in the middle of nowhere. On an elevated tent site, no less! It was a great night in a great state.

Gone on Oregon

15 July 2006, Saturday
Eugene, OR

After a veeeerrrryyy leisurely morning/afternoon (I think each of us woke up at separate points thinking “Well, if they’re both still asleep…”), we devoured a sinful brunch of “Bismarck” with strawberries and whipped cream, did some laundry, and headed into town. Our first stop was Eugene’s annual Hemp fest, which was not so much a celebration of Hemp as much as a pot paraphernalia and advocacy show. Just as we were leaving, Kelly was attracted by the Henna tattoo booth, gave a holla when she noticed the Saturn symbol, which she decided would be most fitting on her driving foot. Perhaps there was too much Hempy haze in the air, as she started giving serious consideration to obtaining a more permanent version. She’s still considering doing so, in fact…

Saturn returns... all over Kelly's foot.

Happy Hempfest!

Only the second lemonade stand of the trip...

We cruised some more through downtown Eugene – such a great town! Stopped at a lemonade stand (only our 2nd of the trip) and then scooted home to make a picnic dinner for the evening’s entertainment – a concert featuring local band and growing global sensation, Pink Martini! The opening act was the March 4th Marching Band, which Meg had happened across one afternoon in Portland, OR – they are a carnival band that pretty much embodies what would result if the band geeks, the edgy artsy kids, and the thespians had cross-bred in high school. Bloody amazing! A quick glance through their website suggests that they mostly play the Oregon area, but we heard that they recently had performed at the World Cup in Germany and also are reigning World Carnival Band Champions, so hopefully the future will bring them further afield. It’s an amazing show, with the funkiest marching band you’ve ever seen, accompanied by dancers on stilts – almost like Cirque du Soliel.

March 4th Marching Band Performer

Then, of course, was Pink Martini – Meg and I have only just discovered them, but Beth was super enthusiastic when Meg mentioned they were in town, and now we know why. Jazzy, loungy, funky and fun, they perform songs from all cultures in about a dozen different languages. We couldn’t help but dance – when we could finally rouse ourselves from laying in the grass under the summer evening sky. We love Eugene! (The town, not the Steve alter ego. Well, we love him, too, but very differently).

16 July 2006
Eugene…

Woke up, and had brunch at this groovy little hippy with the biggest pancake Beth has ever confronted. We then dropped Beth off for her afternoon of grooming where she adopted a new hairstyle we’ve dubbed the “Mob” – party up front, business in the back – sort of like the Bada-Bing – the opposite of a mullet. Despite the description, it works, and she loooooks maaaahvelous.

Tasty O.J.!
Massive Pan Cake

Meg and Kelly wandered around town browsing at many shops selling incense and Kelly hippied out a bit, buying a book on Buddhism and pondering some Nag Champa. I do believe that the henna was being absorbed by the bloodstream. It was nice to feel chill – I can’t imagine being tense in Eugene. It’s the Goldilocks town and really the first along the entire trip that we could both imagine moving to (outside of anywhere in Oklahoma, of course). Watch out, Meg! We strolled through the University of Oregon to get the best ice cream in town, and then sadly had to depart. We said goodbye to our last friendly face ‘til home. Driving north to Portland, we saw the snow capped Mt. Hood in the distance and then turned East for the first time in 3.5 weeks. We drove along I-84, which follows the majestic Columbia River gorge and made camp at Wyeth. For the next week, we’ll have the wind at our backs, all the way to Delaware.

Goodbye, Meg!

Through the Redwood Forest...

From the Redwood Forests…
12 July 2006

The Long and Winding Road outta San Francisco.

An overcast day and an extremely winding stretch of the PCH between the Golden Gate and Stinson Beach did not prove to be a good combination for our Taco Bellies, so we were a bit sullen for our first few hours after San Francisco. Eventually, the winsome coast worked its magic, and as the roads mellowed out a bit, we enjoyed the ride, heading into Mendocino just before sunset. We found a beautifully located campsite just north of the little artsy village, poised just offshore, about ¼ mile behind a working lighthouse. The coast was shrouded in mist, making a great effect with the light beam. If silent, we could here the surf in the distance. We set up Sir Guano and sat down to our dinner of leftover chicken and potatoes, and, realizing that it was our three-week anniversary on the road, we marked the occasion with a Cabernet Sauvignon juice box that Beth had found at the Whole Foods. It was remarkably good, as was that chicken, which even held up under Kelly’s EZ Cheez test.

To celebrate our third week on the road, Beth presents a fine cabernet.
Mmmmm... leftover chicken...

13 July 2006
After a remarkably good night’s sleep (aided by the lusty sea air?), we noticed a growing flock of weird little trailers congregating at the campground in the morning. We finally approached one of the owners who introduced us to the Teardrop Trailer – essentially a little tent on wheels! Inside this little pod fits a quee-nsized bed with some storage over the feet and the back opens up to reveal a kitchen area. Really low maintenance way to travel! We want one and apparently Beth has Kurt working on one back at home – right Kurt?

Get crackin', Kurt!

We continued up the coast (still beautiful, of course), stopping for a snack at a little general store and organic café where we met a nice man and his daughter, who was visiting from Alaska and savoring a mighty fine looking grilled cheese and hot chocolate with whipped cream. Which apparently inspired this man to tell some odd stories about his bear encounters, including a recent event in which a bear approached him but was acting strange. After the man threw gravel in the bear’s face, thus shooing the bear off, he found a decimated Reddi-Whip can nearby and concluded that the bear was high on nitris. Bear Whippits. This was the first of many bear discussions to follow over the coming week.

Route 1 leaves the coast in Humboldt county, just at the beginning of the Lost Coast, where road builders decided to stop fighting the landscape and head inland. This area is now known for producing Humboldt County’s Finest Crop, although we were unable to find any patches to harvest for ourselves. The inland diversion is just as stunning, however, winding through the redwood forest mountains, ultimately leading to the Drive-Thru tree in Legget, CA.

Driven-Thru Tree!

After that, it was onward to the Avenue of the Giants in Redwood National Park. Again, nature overwhelms. This is lumberjack country, and frequently the surrounding hills would be a bit sparse from logging, but still the views over the Eel River were gorgeous.

Giant Redwoods

Ride along for yourself - less neck cramping this way.

We cruised through the quaint Victorian town of Ferndale in order to stop at a Soda Shoppe that Kelly recalled, but they had closed early (why would a store specializing in ice cream shut down at 6 pm in the summer?!), so we headed up the road a bit to Eureka, a totally cool little liberal town on the water. Eureka is a main stop on the Kinetic Sculpture Race held each Memorial Day – a wicked cool local event where fantastical sculptures engage in a 3-day, 42-mile race over sand, sea, and land – it’s a real trip. If you ever find yourself in the Northwest near Memorial Day, check it out! Eureka itself is a worthy town, and we walked in on a traditional Celtic music seisun at a local coffee house, browsed some nice shops, and had yummy ice cream. As darkness fell, we headed about 20 miles north of town to camp for the night.

14 July 2006
Extreme Northern California

Not much to say for the day… we rose, and ate at a great little local café called the Palm. Beth was tempted to buy Betsy and Quinn their first anniversary gift – a painting of a cozy little cottage by a local artist clearly inspired by the work of Thomas Kinkade. More beautiful driving through the woods and along the sea, we set ourselves the goal of reaching Meg’s place in Eugene, OR by dinner time. Because we really wanted to see Meg, of course – the fact that she was going to be cooking us a fantastic salmon dinner was just a side bonus ☺

Beth's Happy Place

Even comes with a bird!

We crossed into Oregon and then wound our way through Grant’s Pass and cruised into Eugene just in time for dinner. Meg kept the competition for Best Home-cooked Meal (and, by this we mean “Best meal” full stop) intense with the pinkest salmon we’d ever seen, cooked to perfection with a lovely dill sauce, as well as fresh local corn on the cob and salad. Beth and Kelly brought a berry pie that they had bought fresh at the campground that morning. Our salivary glands runneth over. We worked off the meal with a brief hike with the sprightly dog Layna at a nearby open space overlooking Eugene and then hung out back at Meg’s always cozy abode.

So long, California!

Hello, Oregon!

Good bye, Chicken - Hello Salmon! Meg brings game in home cookin'

Riding on Cable Cars

San Francisco Bay Area
10 July 2006

Do you know the way to San Jose...?

After arriving on short notice late on a Sunday night, Kurt and Beth’s good friends Chris and Shellie graciously opened their San Jose home to us. T. Snaab was in need of a checkup and servicing, which was getting particularly urgent due to our pididdle status as well as an alarming (though isolated) roof malfunction in L.A. We found a Snaab dealer in San Francisco, figuring that a city location with good public transit and stuff to see would be the best place to be without a car for the day. This is not San Jose, which we suspected would be, and in fact, turned out to be “nowheresville”. Well, not a good place to be without a car, anyway. As Shellie had the day off from work, and Beth wanted to scope out the area, Kelly got up at the crack of dawn to get to the Snaab dealership in SF super early to get our boy on the Monday schedule in the vain hopes of being in and out within the day.

The hospitable (and thankfully, nocturnal!) Chris and Shellie in San Jose!

After staying up quite late being rowdy and boisterous with Chris and Shellie, Beth and Shellie enjoyed a leisurely Monday in the San Jose area. Similar to Kelly’s day, a day of aimless puttering was welcome. Beth remarks that she had some really good berry pie.

Both anxious at their first hours apart in weeks, Beth has a chat with Kelly.

After a bit of a false start, Kelly did find the friendly Ellis something or other Cheverolet and Snaab in the center of San Francisco (two blocks away from the terminus of a cable car line, no less!). Thanks to the friendly and cheerful Kevin, even if not particularly helpful in getting the silly little sideview mirror sensor in a timely fashion. Happily, our friend Alys was able to join Kelly for much of the day as she waited for the car to be serviced. Not much to say, just a nice, cool day of errands and puttering in San Francisco. We did walk around North Beach for a bit, took a taxi ride down an extremely wicked steep street and had some really tasty Indian food that came with the disclaimer before we entered: “Now, it’s best to just ignore any bugs you see, also this is not the place you want to use the restroom – but it’s the best chicken tikka masala in the city – I promise you.” And, indeed, the food was mighty tasty.

11 July 2006

Betsy: Editing Job open at San Francisco Chronicle...

As the Snaab needed to be held overnight to wait for a part that was ultimately not delivered, Beth took the CalTrain up from San Jose the next morning and we spent the day with Alys, crawling around the city. Well, not really… we got a day transit pass and hopped on the cable car to head to Mama’s, a really funky and yummy brunch restaurant. But while on the cable car, Alys got this wild look in her eyes and started raving about some sort of chocolate truffles that were located nearby. Don’t have to tell us twice – we headed to XOX for a ‘cup of coffee’ – the coffee there comes with a free truffle. Word. And these are fine truffles – in dozens of fall-to-your-knees flavors including cognac, champagne, lemon, amaretto, coconut and hazlenut and carmel and … (you see where we’re going – and, yes, we’ve sampled them all).

We love Cable Cars!

Beth and Alys on board!

Kelly wants to go again!

We walked with our coffee for a bit, until Kelly was summoned by a park bench that was veritably glowing “sit here!”. So we did, we sat on that bench for a good long while, smiling up at the vivid California blue sky, and observing a very happy puppy as well as the famous Parrots of Telegraph Hill. Apparently, a resident some years ago most likely had some parrots that got free or were set free or who knows what, but now there are a flock of green parrots that live in the neighborhood. Definitely beats pigeons any day of the week. We interrupted our bench-sitting for a while to have some fantastic food at Mama’s, and then resumed sitting on different bench perpendicular to the first for a different perspective to aid digestion.

Beth's new puppy (who was unfortunately owned by a creepy guy
who probably just got him to lure chicks like Beth).

With our sitting quota reached, we enjoyed a healthy walk up and down some treacherous San Francisco hills en route to more cable car riding. Seriously, what inspired people to build homes and businesses on these hills? In a city, no less? I can’t imagine having to walk home with a load of groceries or laundry on these slopes!

We then picked up the less-touristy California Street line cable car, which was far less crowded than the “Rice-a-Roni” Van Ness line that goes to Fisherman’s Wharf. Kelly and Beth were having a ball hanging off the side handles (it gives a great stretch!) – so much so that when we got to the end, Alys suggested staying on for another trip. Why the heck not? So we turned around and enjoyed the journey again. Beautiful! Even better is that the cable car dropped us a couple of blocks from the Snaab Dr. where Kelly sprung her baby, gimpy side-view mirror or not.

While crossing the Golden Gate Bridge...

Kelly acheives Fahrvergnugen.

The Snaab rests after hiking the Marin headlands

Following a brief stop at Whole Foods to procure makings for Alys’s famous out-of-this-world rosemary roasted chicken and potatoes, we dropped the top and took a brief spin over the Golden Gate bridge in the evening sunshine, and then headed up to the Marin headlands to enjoy the view over the city. On our way back, we cruised down Lombard Street “The crookedest street in the world” (although this may not really be true, Beth says there’s one in Iowa that claims to be more crooked), and also Kelly got to drive the scary 2nd steepest street in San Francisco for herself. It’s really freaky to not be able to see any road whatsoever beyond your windshield. Wowza. Alys then took us back to her temporary abode in order to make us salivate for two hours while we waited for chicken. We love home cooked meals! Best of all, she packed us up a doggy bag to take on the road when we left the next day. To say that it beats EZ Cheez is an understatement.

If you're not gnawing at your computer screen right now, you don't know what you're missing.

12 July 2006
We dropped Alys off at work the next morning, and resumed our northward journey along the PCH, including a stop at the world’s best located, but also disturbingly creepy Taco Bell right on the beach in Pacifica. Beth says she has had this disturbingly not quite right feeling only once before, on the Isle of Wight. We were both glad to leave.

Creepy Taco Bell

We cruised through SF one last time, at this crossing, the Golden Gate was shrouded in fog – a completely different and yet still compellingly beautiful drive. We may not have left our hearts in San Francisco, but between the truffles and the chicken, we may well have left our stomachs there.

So long, San Francisco!

Hooray for Hollywood or Hipster in Hell-A

Hooray for Hollywood!
Or, they finish Route 66
July 8, 2006

This is our favorite picture - on the beach in Santa Monica

First, many thanks to my lovely friend Jen for letting us crash at her swanky pad in the hipster paradise of Silver Lake, Los Angeles, CA (hereafter known as “Slake”). We arrived late late after hightailing it from Laguna, in the far south of the O.C. (apparently, no one calls it by that name there. Shame.). We woke up at a leisurely hour and walked around the corner to a funky organic café for brunch (that’s right – walked! In L.A.!) We saw several people sporting shirts featuring a picture of a wiener dog with the logo Team Bingo. Kelly loves wiener dogs, and wanted to learn more. Jen mentioned that these probably came from a couple of stores down, so after brunch we popped in and loved it! The store is “Pull my Daisy” and the owner greeted us with “Hey, Chicks” as we walked in. How L.A. Kelly asked about the “Bingo” shirts and we were summarily introduced to Bingo the Dachshund, who strutted out from behind the desk. As it turns out, the Team Bingo shirts were in support of Bingo’s appearance in the annual Wiener Dog races at an area horse track that night. This is done each year to raise money for local Pet Rescue. It was a cause we were happy to support and we loaded up on hipster t-shirt goodies.

Go Bingo!

After that, we hopped back in T. Snaab and backtracked a bit to pick up Route 66 outside of Pasadena. Jen was psyched to be in a proper California ready automobile, and while cruising with the top down seems to be the norm out there, it nearly gave Beth heat stroke, as it was wicked hot inland. We did detour a block to cruise Rodeo Drive, where we were hooted at by some guys asking why we had Mass. Plates. Kelly responded with a “Because I live in Massachusetts” in her best duh voice. Turns out the guy was from Quincy. Small world. The guy then proceeded to rev engines against another guy in an Astin Martin. How L.A.

Rodeo Drive, baby!

We got back in our habit of trying to follow poorly marked routes and eventually landed on Santa Monica Boulevard, which led us through Beverly Hills and straight to the ocean and the end of an important leg in our journey. We celebrated with a ride on the famed Santa Monica Pier Ferris wheel, enjoying lovely views down to Marina Del Mar and up to Malibu. Well Beth and Kelly enjoyed the view – Jen was too busy staring at the floor and gripping the pole like a Vegas showgirl.

The End of Route 66!

Jen is so brave...
Kelly is so smug.

Yay! We made it!

Santa Monica Pier at sunset

Come for a spin on the Santa Monica Pier Ferris Wheel!

Then we frolicked along the beach for a bit before heading to Echo Park for a fireworks display at the Lotus Festival. This was particularly key given our massive rip-off in Vegas. The fireworks were awesome over the palm trees – rather than a prolonged display, they basically mounted a ten-minute finale. Wicked. We hung out with some of Jen’s friends and their cats and then turned in.

Finally! Fireworks!

July 9, 2006
Los Angeles

Beth has her aura cleansed by Jen before we rejoin the road...

As does Kelly.

Happy now, Meg?

We woke in the morning to brunch again at the House of Pies (Beth was in her element!) and then Jen gave us a mini-tour of her old ‘hood, Los Feliz, home to Gwen Stefani and herinafter known as LoFi (Jen is trying to coin her own “SoHo” style neighborhood names. Spread the word). We drove up to Griffith Park, a huge mountainous park offering great views of most of the L.A. area, including the Hollywood sign. After that, it was time to say goodbye again, and pick up our next road, Route 1 – The Pacific Coast Highway.

House of Pies, y'all.

From Santa Monica, we headed north to Malibu. We closely examined passing bikers in hopes of snagging Brad Pitt (Kelly had been making sure to save a seat for him in the back), but no such luck. The drive north up the PCH was just gorgeous. We realized how much we love water after two weeks of driving through corn fields and deserts.


Best Place to be an Elephant Seal?

Yup, it looks like this. We were driving in a picture.

The Snaab just can't believe his fortune!

It only got better the further north we headed, culminating in Big Sur, for which there are no words. After Saturday’s heat stroke at 98 degrees, we were surprised to have to put the top up when the mid-day temperature dropped to 58. Too chilly! But still sunny and beautiful. Not much we can say, but if a picture’s worth a thousand words, here are a couple grand – because we’re still speechless. At one point, Beth told me she was seriously contemplating having me smack her, since she was overwhelmed nearly to the point of hysteria by the beauty – green mountains, crashing waves, blue blue water, and fog with personality skipping up the mountains. All with the intoxicating smell of eucalyptus trees. Luckily, perhaps, we turned off for San Jose before Kelly could bust out her smack down. Maybe next time…

Check out that fog - we're driving through clouds...



Watch for yourself!